Examples
of bust silhouettes that visually support the STRAIGHT-front-seam construction
method
Boucher, Francois. 20,000 Years
of Fashion: The History of Costume and Personal Adornment. New York: Harry N.
Abrams
- p. 203: Boccaccio of the Duc
de Berry, c. 1410, Paris, ms. fr. 598 fol. 49v; woman wearing fancy over-gown
with pendant flaps lined in fur.
- p.204: Italian breviary, c. 1380, ms.
lat. 577, fol. 380; multiple women
- p. 205: "Virgin and Child",
aka "Agnes Sorel" by Jean Fouquet c. 1460 (or 1480); famous 'baseball
boobs' portrait; though the picture clearly shows a straight front seam closure,
it also shows a six-part construction, which provided additional tailoring
opportunities.
- p. 206: Queen Jeanne, panel from Narbonne,
c. 1373–1378; Queen Jeanne wears a sideless surcotte over her gown,
but the height of her bosom could indicate a straight-front-seam construction
method.
Camille, Michael. The Medieval
Art of Love. London: Harry N. Abrams, 1998.
- p. 76 Lovers go shopping from Le
Chevalier Errant, Paris, c. 1410; woman in blue gown on the right; side-view.
Pognan, Edmond, ed. Boccaccio's
Decameron: 15th Century Manuscript. Fribourg–Geneva: Productions Liber
S.A., 1978.
- Throughout this text there are multiple
instances of bust shaping that could be achieved with the straight-front-seam
method. Note: Although the editor dates this manuscript to 1330-1340, I have
a hard time believing that it was done much past 1410, as the styles appear
dead-on for that earlier time period.
The Belles Heures of Jean, Duke
of Berry. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1958.
- book-plate 30: A woman praying in fancy
overgown — though painted by the Limbourg brothers who also painted
April, May, and June of the Tres Riches Heures (cited as examples of silhouettes
achievable with the curved-front-seam method), the bust shaping in this one
picture strongly resembles the push-up-and-shelf effect of the straight-front-seam
method.
Spencer, Judith, trans. The Four
Seasons of the House of Cerruti. New York: Facts on File Publications, 1984.
- Notable for its many large-busted female
figures, this manuscript is peppered with many fine examples of gowns that
can be recreated using the curved-front seam method. To be fair, it also portrays
gown styles that more closely resemble the look of the straight-front-seam
method.
Sronkova, Olga. Gothic Fashions
in Women's Dress. Prague: Artia, 1954.
- p. 167: Bible of King Wenceslas IV,
fol. 69, c. end of the 14th century; Woman on the left with 'frounced' headdress
wears a particularly good example of a gown that achieves the high lift and
shelf-like cleavage of the straight-front-seam method.
Thomas, Marcel. The Golden Age:
Manuscript Painting at the Time of Jean, Duke of Berry. New York: George Braziller,
1979
- p. 42: The Tacuinum Sanitatis fol.
25 "Orgeat (Aqua Ordei)"; a lady in close-fitting beige gown (side-laced)
with dagged 'angel' sleeves in the Italian style of the very late 14th century
and turn of the 15th century.
Copyright © 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006 Tasha Kelly McGann. The author of
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